Somloi Fekete Pince Furmint 2020

So What? 

"While most may be more familiar with Furmint from Tokaj, this is a completely different animal. This is especially the case with a warm vintage like 2018 where higher levels of residual sugar were not needed to balance out over the top acidity. The acidity is still nearly 8 g/l, so it’s hardly subtle, but there’s ripeness behind it. While only macerated for 4 hours, the élevage is also what matters here. Gently pressed and fermented in 1000L Hungarian Oak barrels, it then spends 10 months on the lees. It’s then moved to 500 and 1500 liter tanks for reductive aging for a minimum of two years before bottling. No racking and no stirring. A “fresh” wine all things considered, the naturally high acidity and aromatic neutrality of Furmint allows Somló to shine clearly.

'Somló (Shoam-low) is Hungary’s smallest appellation and once an underwater volcano. Now dormant, its slopes of ancient sea sediment, hardened lava, and basalt are home to some of Hungary’s steepest, most densely planted vineyards. The oldest writings mentioning the wine of Somló date back to 1093 and viticulture all the way back to the Romans. 

'With 4 hectares dry farmed on the southern slopes, the basalt soil retains heat and a mixture of alluvial and loam soils give just enough nutrients. The vineyards have a secret garden appeal that’s far from a monoculture. Organic certification is underway and more an issue of paperwork than changes to the farming. Equally important, and also according to Béla, the vineyard access to the mineral spring water of Somló is the magic, not simply rocks touching vines. In tandem with botrytis and 3 years minimum of élevage, there’s a perfect storm for making something truly unique and delicious."